So how many people hate making roux? I’m fine with making blonde roux, mostly used the thicken things, but when it comes to making penny-roux, the deep dark, meant-for-flavor type of roux used to make things like gumbo, I either lose patience (because it takes so long) or I mess it up by burning the whole thing. Either way, it isn’t my favorite thing to do, so when America’s Test Kitchen demonstrated a dry roux (by placing plain old flour in the oven for an hour), I was really happy. That photo isn’t of cinnamon, it’s flour! And it turns out to work well, at least in making this Chicken and Andoille Sausage Gumbo. At the end of the day, it takes about the same amount of time (2 hours), but you can also toast the flour weeks or even a month or two ahead of time. Game changer! (Oh, and in addition to the technique, the Gumbo is pretty dang tasty too!
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped fine
1 green bell pepper, chopped fine
2 celery ribs, chopped fine
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon paprika
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
4 cups chicken broth, room temperature
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed
8 ounces andouille sausage, halved and sliced 1/4 inch thick
6 scallions, sliced thin
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
Serve with: white rice and hot sauce
Directions
Heat oven to 425F. Place flour in 12-inch skillet and bake, stirring occasionally, until color of ground cinnamon, 40 to 55 minutes. As flour approaches desired color, it will take on very nutty aroma that will smell faintly of burnt popcorn, and it will need to be stirred more frequently. Transfer flour to medium bowl and let cool.
Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell pepper, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in thyme, garlic, paprika, bay leaves, cayenne, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in 2 cups broth. Add chicken in single layer. Note that the chicken will not be completely submerged in liquid. Bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until chicken is fork-tender, 15 to 17 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate.
Slowly whisk remaining 2 room temperature cups broth in small increments into toasted flour until thick, smooth, batter-like paste forms. Increase heat of dutch oven to medium and slowly whisk paste into gumbo, making sure each addition is incorporated before adding next. Stir in andouille. Simmer, uncovered, until gumbo thickens slightly, 20 to 25 minutes.
Meanwhile, once cool enough to handle, shred chicken into bite-size pieces. Stir chicken and scallions into gumbo. Remove pot from heat, stir in vinegar, and season with salt to taste. Discard bay leaves. Serve with rice and if you like a kick, adding hot sauce separately.
